Creamy Winter Soup

After our delicious Christmas of starch and meat... and sweets... my body was craving some vegetables. I also want to get a greater variety of vegetables into my diet. This is something I typically forget to do in the winter months. During the summer, it's so easy; I just stop by my local farmer's market and go wild. We have some wonderful local producers who remember to provide many types of vegetables. I actually have been complimented by a couple (patting myself on the back here) for my "adventurous" selections. Once it was for simply buying rainbow colored carrots (which are so superior to the simple orange ones) and beets. Another time it was for buying kohlrabi, turnips, and possibly rutabaga.

During the winter, I tend to eat a lot of cheese, mushrooms, bread, squash, potatoes and meat. I think that this is mostly natural - those are the items that would have been available... I think... back in the day. But seeing as I have more opportunity to purchase other items year round, I should take advantage of it (to an extent - I still avoid buying fresh tomatoes in the winter since they rarely taste as good as the summer ones. Why torture myself with sub-par tomatoes?) I didn't avoid starch completely with this recipe, but I made sure to add some other nutritious vegetables to make me feel better about it.

Creamy Winter Soup

1/4 c wild rice
2 large red potatoes, cut in quarters lengthwise and sliced about 1/8 inch thick
2 tbsp butter or oil
1 small onion, chopped small
salt
1 clove garlic, thinly sliced
12 cremini mushrooms, sliced 1/8 inch thick
1 c reserved wild rice water
1 c reserved potato water
5 c water
2 tsp chicken Better than Bouillon
1 bunch kale, stems removed, torn into pieces and washed well
1/4 c half and half
1 c milk
salt and pepper to taste
1 tsp dill weed
1/4 tsp paprika

Place wild rice in a pan with plenty of water (about 4 cups).
Bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes.
When rice is done, drain over a measuring cup to reserve 1 cup of the water.
Place potatoes in a large soup pot with water to cover.
Bring to a boil and cook until potatoes are tender.
Drain potatoes over a measuring cup to reserve 1 cup of the water.
Dry out the soup pot, then put over medium-high heat.
Add butter or oil to pan and heat.
When butter is hot, reduce heat to medium and add onion and sprinkle with salt.
Cook onion, stirring, until browned (be careful not to burn the onion).
Add garlic and cook for 30 seconds.
Add mushrooms and cook, stirring, for 3 minutes.
Pour in reserved wild rice and potato water and 5 cups water.
Add chicken bouillon and stir.
Add kale and bring soup to a simmer.
Cook until kale is almost tender.
Add potatoes, cooked wild rice, half and half, milk, salt and pepper, dill weed and paprika.
Heat over medium-low heat until flavors are well blended.
Serve hot.

Vintage Cookbooks

To state it simply, I love cookbooks! I especially adore vintage cookbooks. I learned to cook from my mother and two cookbooks: Betty Crocker's Cookbook (23rd printing 1974, copyright 1969) and The Fannie Farmer Cookbook revised by Wilma Lord Perkins (Eleventh Edition, 1965). My mother gave me the basic building blocks of cooking and the two cookbooks taught me the many structures that could be created. One of the reasons I love vintage cookbooks so much is that they don't insult your intelligence. They expect that you can debone meat, mix batters by hand, and chop, slice, and mince with your own knife. I no longer wonder that most Americans no longer know how to cook from scratch when many of today's cookbooks use as many convenience items as possible and advertise that all of your meals can be cooked in 30 minutes or less. There are popular chefs whose cookbooks do not follow this trend, but I fear their cookbooks end up being coffee table books rather than kitchen staples. I hope I am wrong, but with the number of people who tell me they don't know how to cook makes me worry.

Another thing lacking in many newer cookbooks is taste. Boneless, skinless meat should only be used to a certain extent. Cooks should not fear putting oil or butter in their pan rather than spray oil. Vintage cookbooks give me the recipes as people used to make them, full of flavor and style, but with out pretension. And after cooking a while, you can be your own judge of whether that recipe you want to try really needs a whole stick of butter or a whole cup of heavy cream. I approach vintage cookbooks as I approach all recipes - I adapt them to my own tastes or those of my guests.

So, my favorite cream of mushroom soup recipe is adapted from a Fannie Farmer recipe. I cut the butter and the cream. I usually use half-and-half rather than cream because that's typically what I have in my refrigerator. My favorite chicken potpie recipe is actually my mother’s, which she adapted from Betty Crocker. If you limit yourself to what is exactly in a recipe, you will get bored in your kitchen quickly. That said, vintage cookbooks are the land of "new" ideas and invention. There is a greater variety of ingredients in comparison to today's limited diet.

My current library of "vintage" cookbooks (and I suppose I use that liberally, since some are from the 60s) includes:

Betty Crocker's Cookbook by General Mills, Inc; copyright 1969, printed 1974.
The Fannie Farmer Cookbook revised by Wilma Lord Perkins; copyright 1965.
[I want to get this book in its older editions as well and compare the recipes.]
The American Heritage Cookbook by the editors of American Heritage, copyright 1964.
Sweets [appears to be by Lydia E. Pinkham's Medicines, no date is given]
The Metropolitan Cook Book by Metropolitan Life Insurance Company, printed 1925.
Choice Recipes: How To Operate a Fireless Cookstove by Toledo Cooker Company, copyright 1920.
Victory Cook Book: How to Eat Well... Live Well... Plan Balanced Meals... under Food Rationing by Lysol Disinfectant, copyright 1943 [and free with purchase of Lysol].
Everybody's Cook Book published by The Haskin Service, (no date, but was printed during WWII).
The next two I just received for Christmas from my brother, Kurt, and his wife, Jenny.
Modern Priscilla Cookbook: 1,000 Recipes and Cooking Methods by The Priscilla Publishing Company, copyright 1929.
The Wine Cook Book by The Browns (Cora, Rose and Bob), copyright 1951.

My new favorite sentence is: "Cookery becomes an art when judgment, skill, creative ability and a fine appreciation of flavors enter into it." [Quoted from Modern Priscilla Cookbook] Finally I have proof that I am artistic - with food!

Christmas Eve Breakfast

My whole family has postponed our Christmas celebration to January. While this meant that we haven't quite felt that holiday spirit this year, it turns out it wasn't that bad of a decision. If my brother and his girlfriend had been flying home, they would have found themselves stuck on the west coast due to the recent weather. Let's hope that January, which tends to be snowier all around, doesn't throw us for a loop too!

Postponed family Christmas celebration means postponed traditional meals. On Christmas Eve we usually have sausage, cheese, dill bread and soup. Christmas morning brings caramel rolls and scrambled eggs. The Christmas Day meal is typically either ham or turkey. There was one Christmas where my mom and I tried to break with tradition and had an Indian meal one day and Cajun the next. I still haven't heard the end of the gastronomic adventures my weaker stomached family members experienced.

Since I have tradition to look forward to and I'm spending this Christmas Eve and Day with my brother and sister-in-law, we're covering the Puerto Rican traditions of my sister-in-law's family. If you haven't had the pleasure to eat good home cooked Puerto Rican food, you are missing out! Earlier this week Jen (my sister-in-law) made Frijoles con bollitas (stewed black eyed pea with green banana dumplings). It's one of my favorite Puerto dishes. Tonight, for Christmas Eve dinner we'll be having Alcapurrias (green banana and plantain dough filled with seasoned beef and deep fried). Tomorrow we'll be having pork roast seasoned with garlic, green olives and adobo. Yum!

This morning, while my brother, Kurt, and Jen went for a run, I made breakfast. I fried up the mashed potato filling from the varenyky like hash. I scrambled a few eggs and cooked some sausages. While all of that was delicious, it mainly played the role of accompanying my first attempt at Ginger Scones. Jen and I have both had Ginger Scones that we've loved. I wanted to capture the variety of tastes you can get from ginger in its many forms, so I used candied ginger, ground ginger, and freshly grated ginger. The only thing I would do differently is to squeeze the juice out of the grated ginger and not use the pulp. Oh, and follow the recipe accurately and not add an extra 1/4 c of butter (oops). What follows is an adaptation of a Buttermilk Scone recipe that my mother found online and which we've found to be the best basic scone recipe. I've marked the items I added with an asterisk. That way you can omit or change those to make your own creations.

Ginger Scones

3 c flour
1/3 c sugar
1 tsp salt
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp cinnamon*
1/2 tsp ground ginger*
3/4 c unsalted butter
1/2 c candied ginger, chopped*
1/4 c walnuts, chopped*
juice from 3 inches of fresh ginger, grated*
1 c plus a dash buttermilk

Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Put flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, baking soda, cinnamon and ground ginger in a large mixing bowl and stir together well.
Cut butter into the dry ingredients until coarse meal is achieved.
Stir in candied ginger and walnuts.
Mix fresh ginger juice into buttermilk.
Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients.
Using a wooden spoon or stiff rubber spatula, gently mix. (I slide the spoon into the bowl along the edge, scooping up through the center.)
When everything is JUST moist, gather dough into your hands and gently form into a loose ball.
Divide dough in half.
With each half, pat into a loose ball then place on a lightly floured surface.
Pat ball flat to about 1 inch thick.
Cut each dough round into 8 wedges and arrange on cookie sheets.
Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until inside is dry and outside is only slightly browned.
Serve warm.

Breakfast Sandwiches

I assume that most everyone has had either one of those chain breakfast sandwiches or something similar. Well, my sister-in-law made her own version the other morning. When I saw her choice of meat I wondered... hard salami on a breakfast sandwich? But it was tasty. This morning, looking for a quick breakfast and seeing the fresh French bread sitting on the counter, I made a goat cheese and egg version. Breakfast sandwiches are fun and easy to be creative with, so get out your eggs, find your favorite bread, and start creating!

Jen's Egg Sandwich

1 egg
1 tsp butter or butter substitute
salt and pepper to taste
1 slice hard salami
1 English muffin
butter for muffin

Heat the teaspoon of butter in a pan.
Add egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover pan and fry until the egg is cooked to your desired firmness.
Toast English muffin while egg is frying.
Butter muffin.
Once egg is cooked, place on the muffin.
Place the slice of hard salami in the hot pan and fry quickly on both sides.
Place salami on the egg, top with other half of muffin and serve hot.

Goat Cheese Breakfast Sandwich

5 inches of French bread, sliced in half
1 tsp butter or butter substitute
2 eggs
salt and pepper to taste
2 tbsp goat cheese

Heat butter in a frying pan.
Add eggs and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
When eggs are mostly cooked, flip over and cook until yolk is your desired firmness.
While eggs are cooking, spread goat cheese on the bottom half of the French bread.
When eggs are done, cut in half and place length wise on the bottom half of the bread.
Replace top half of the bread and serve hot.

You could easily add fresh basil and thinly sliced tomatoes to this sandwich. Or maybe mix some dill weed into the goat cheese before spreading on the bread. Or if you'd like to add meat, what about pan frying some prosciutto a little? Eggs go well with mustard, so you could put a thin layer of mustard on your bread, under the goat cheese. The best way to approach your kitchen is to keep an open mind. When you have an ingredient you want to use, look through your refrigerator and cupboard for the things that might go well with it. Don't be afraid to break with tradition and you'll have the culinary variety needed to expand your cooking repertoire and to keep cooking fun.

Wild Mushroom Soup and Varenyky

I realized that the last "recipe" I posted for Varenyky would leave most people at a loss of where to start. So last night we made varenyky and served it with a Wild Mushroom soup. I started the recipe making as many potatoes as when I first learned the dish and increased the amount of dough in hopes that it would be enough to use up all the filling. We ended up with leftover filling (which we plan to pan fry for breakfast). The recipe that follows should get you close to equal amounts of dough and filling. Keep in mind that you can also be creative with the fillings. Spinach and cheese filling would be delicious. I tried a sweet potato, asiago cheese, and Italian sausage filling that was very tasty. The recipe that follows is more traditional, minus the addition of dill. My friend had used feta cheese in hers, but my sister-in-law is lactose intolerant, so we omitted that and added more salt. My brother helped stuff the dumplings. He had plenty opportunity to taste test the filling, since he was licking excess filling off his fingers. It's a good thing we're all family here.

Varenyky with Potato Filling

4 large potatoes, peeled and cut into quarters
3 large onions, two finely chopped and one halved and sliced into thin half moons
1/2 c olive oil
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper (or to taste)
1 tsp salt (or to taste)
1/4 tsp dill weed
2 c whole wheat flour
1 c unbleached white flour
1 c water (approximate)
sour cream (for serving)

Place potatoes in a pot filled with water and boil until tender.
While potatoes are boiling, heat 1/4 c olive oil in a saute pan.
Add the two chopped onions to the oil and fry until they start to brown.
Remove onions from the heat.
When potatoes are tender (fork inserts easily into them), drain well and place in a mixing bowl.
Use a potato masher or ricer to mash the potatoes well (you don't want any large chunks).
Add sauteed onions with oil to the potatoes.
Add ground black pepper, salt and dill and mix well.
Set aside.
Place flours in a wide, shallow mixing bowl.
Add water a little at a time, mixing well with your hands.
Once dough becomes a ball, begin kneading the dough and adding water as needed.
You should knead the dough five to ten minutes so that it is uniform on consistency. The finished dough should be slightly tacky, but not sticky.
Take a portion of the dough and roll into a 1 to 1 1/2 inch log.
Cut pieces from the log about the size of a large marble and roll into a ball.
Use your fingertips to press the dough into a circle, starting with the center of the ball and slowly working out to the edges.
The dough circle should end up covering the palm of your hand and should not be so thin as to see through it.
Place a heaping teaspoon of filling into the center of the dough. You can fill more or less depending on the size of your circle.
Fold the dough over the filling and, starting with the center of the half moon, press edges firmly together. Edges should be sealed well.
Place prepared varenyky onto a place dusted with flour.
Once you have a layer of varenyky, dust with flour and continue piling the varenyky. Dust with flour between all layers so that they do not stick together.
When you are nearly done filling the varenyky, fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil.
To cook the varenyky, add enough varenyky to the boiling water so that they do not overlap. Stir once.
Once the varenyky float to the top of the water, cook for 60 seconds longer.
Remove the varenyky from the water with a slotted spoon and place in a serving bowl.
While second batch of varenyky are boiling, heat the remaining olive oil in a pan.
Add the sliced onion and saute until starting to brown.
Pour some of this over the already cooked varenyky.
As each batch of varenyky goes into the serving bowl, pour a little more of the oil and onion over the top.
Serve warm with sour cream.

As we wanted to have a vegetable with our dumplings last night, my sister-in-law and I decided to make a mushroom soup. As I was making dinner, this posed a welcome challenge to me. I admittedly use a lot of dairy. My typical fat of choice is butter. In my favorite mushroom soup recipe, you fry the onions in butter and add half and half for a creamy texture. This would have left my sister-in-law in quite a bit of pain, so I needed to make a flavorful broth based soup. I knew that my typical recipe, which only uses portabella mushrooms, would have lacked in depth. So when we went shopping we bought fresh portabella and shitake mushrooms and a small package of dried porcini mushrooms. I used the water in which the porcini mushrooms were reconstituted as the broth for the soup. If I had thought enough in advance, I would have made the soup as it reads below. As it was, I forgot that I would not be using the stems from the portabella and shitake mushrooms. So, they are sitting in the refrigerator to be used in a future mushroom broth.

Wild Mushroom Soup

1 package dried porcini mushrooms
3 large portabella mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed and caps chopped
1 6oz package shitake mushrooms, cleaned, stems removed and caps chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, finely diced
2 tbsp onion, finely diced
2 c reserved mushroom broth
2 c water
1/2 tsp chicken better than bouillon
salt and pepper to taste

Bring 3 c water to a boil in a medium soup pot.
Place portabella and shitake mushroom stems in cheese cloth and tie shut.
When water comes to a boil, reduce to a simmer and add the porcini mushrooms and the cheese cloth package.
Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, or until porcini mushrooms are tender.
Remove cheese cloth package.
Place a strainer over a liquid measuring cup and drain porcini mushrooms, reserving 2 cups of the broth (or more if you'd like).
Make sure soup pot is dry and place over a medium heat.
Add olive oil to pot to heat.
Add shallots and onions, cooking slowly until translucent (reduce heat if necessary).
Add portabella and shitake mushroom caps, sprinkle with salt and cook until mushrooms are tender.
Chop porcini mushrooms and add to the pot.
Add reserved mushroom broth, water, bouillon, and salt and pepper.
Simmer for 20 minutes and serve hot.

Varenyky (Ukrainian Dumplings)

This past summer, while in the New York area for work, I visited a great Ukrainian cafe with some colleagues of mine. The borscht was delicious, but I fell in love with the varenyky, or dumplings. The cafe had a wide variety of fillings, some traditional and some not. One of my colleagues is from Ukraine and graciously offered to teach me how to make them. It's quite simple, even without measurements. Like all good home cooked food, this is a recipe of approximation. Relax and have fun with it! This recipe is not traditional because my friend adapted it to her and her Greek husband's own tastes.

flour
water
potatoes
onion
olive oil
feta cheese
salt
pepper
dill weed

In a mixing bowl, place enough flour for the amount of potatoes you plan to make. (perhaps 2 cups) Add water slowly, mixing and kneading the dough until it is slightly sticky and the consistency of pizza dough. Set aside. Peel and quarter four to six potatoes. Place in a pan, cover with water, and boil until tender. While potatoes are boiling, chop one to two onions finely. Heat a generous amount of olive oil in a saute pan add the onions. Cook onions until they begin to brown and remove from heat. Once potatoes are tender, drain and use a potato ricer to mash. Add the onions (with the oil) and feta cheese, salt, pepper and dill weed to taste. Mix thoroughly. Take a portion of the dough and roll into a log until the diameter of a quarter. Cut off pieces of dough about 1 1/2 inches long and roll into a ball. Use your fingers to press into a circle of dough. (It should be thin, but not so thin that you can see through it.) Place enough filling so that the dumpling is plump, but you can still seal it. Press the edges firmly together into a half moon shape. Set aside and continue until all the dough or all of the filling is used up. You might need to flour the dumplings so that they do not stick together before cooking. Once all dumplings are assembled, fill a stock pot with water and bring to a boil. Add dumplings one at a time until the bottom is covered with only a single layer of dumplings. Stir once and let boil. While first batch is boiling, chop another onion. Heat a generous amount of oil in a pan, then saute onion until it starts to brown. Once dumplings float to the top, cook another 60 seconds, then remove from pot with slotted spoon. Place in a serving bowl. Pour a little of the onion and oil on the dumplings. Continue to boil dumplings in small batches. Once all dumplings are cooked, serve hot with sour cream.